New Belgrade, or Novi Beograd, as it is called here in Serbia, is a part of the City of Belgrade located on the left bank of the Sava River, and directly across the river from the Stari Grad, or old town. It is, in a word, an eyesore, in my humble view. Built by the Communist regime just after World War II, it is comprised of many gray and dirty-looking apartment buildings and other unsightly structures. It resembles other communist-era neighborhoods I've seen in other Eastern European cities (most notably, parts of Bucharest, Romania).
What New Belgrade lacks in charm, however, it makes up for with some of the best shopping in the city. Both of the city's very nice shopping malls are located in New Belgrade, as are several lovely hotels (including the Hyatt, which I hear is top-notch). A huge outdoor Chinese market, as well as Belgrade's own outdoor flea market, are located here, as well. The area is also home to some of my favorite grocery stores (Super Vero, I love you, and will miss you and your totally kick butt selection of absolutely delicious olives!!) The Belgrade Arena and the Sava Center, both venues for many-an-outstanding cultural event (including most recently Elton John and Eric Clapton concerts, and an outstanding traveling production of Mamma Mia) are located here. And so, despite its aesthetic challenges, New Belgrade is a part of town that lures lots of folks, including me.
When we moved to Belgrade, the city's Roma population had taken up residence in this part of town, as well. In fact, on our initial drive into the city from the airport in March of 2009, I was surprised (and somewhat horrified, actually) to see a massive Roma camp (cardboard houses and all) under one of the bridges connecting New Belgrade to the older part of town in which we live. Shortly thereafter, however, the City of Belgrade moved these folks to another part of town, and, I'm told, placed most or all of them in apartment buildings with water and electricity.
Since that time, however, some of the Roma families have moved back to New Belgrade, and have set up smaller settlements in several locations. It is quite a dichotomy, needless to say, to see a Roma settlement, with kids begging in the streets, one block down the street from a very upscale shopping mall. But, as I've learned during our time here, Serbia is nothing if not a place full of dichotomies and contradictions.
Here are some photos of New Belgrade taken back in March of this year:
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| Teenage girls hanging out in front of the Roma settlement |
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| Cardboard "houses" |
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| Roma settlement (and a couple of the "ugly" apartment buildings int he background) |
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| Lovely, "tiered" communist-era apartment buildings. You can imagine how fancy these must have seemed when they were being built. |
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| Tram in New Belgrade |
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| A common sight in New Belgrade -- lots of trash, and in this case, right in front of a very nice and new office building |
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| More trash |
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| Roma man pushing his wheelbarrow/cart used to collect things |
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