Istanbul is the world's fifth largest city (population-wise), and the only metropolis in the world that is situated on two continents. Historically, it also is known as Byzantium and Constantinople, having served as the center of the Roman Empire for more than 1000 years. Conquered by the Ottomans in 1453, it then became the capital of the Ottoman Empire for nearly 500 years. This place is literally oozing with history.
We arrived in Istanbul late on Saturday afternoon, and finally made it to our hotel around 7 p.m. Eager to get our bearings, we quickly ran up to the hotel's rooftop terrace to see what we could see. What we saw was pretty stunning (the Marmara Sea, mosques, minarets, windy streets and old homes and apartment buildings seemingly built right on top of each other); what we heard was even more amazing -- the evening call to prayer had just begun (there are five calls to prayer each day!). Our hotel was situated at the bottom of a large hill on the southern side of Sultanhamet near the Marmara Sea. We were literally surrounded, therefore, by mosques, and when the call to prayer began, there was an amazing surround-sound effect. (Although historically, imams climbed to the top of the minarets to broadcast the call to prayer, mosques now have speakers on the top of the minarets, and the imam is inside the building speaking into a microphone). None of us could have imagined that the call to prayer would be so loud or last so long. This was an amazing introduction to Istanbul!
Our call-to-prayer experience was followed by an excellent dinner at a small local restaurant recommended by our hotel -- a great first evening!
Virginia and Mikayla at the restaurant (with shawls provided by the restaurant because it was chilly outside) on our first night in Istanbul.
The following day was full of sightseeing. We managed to hit three major sights that day: the Basilica Cistern, the Haghia (or Aya) Sofia, and the Blue Mosque.
The Basilica Cistern is a sprawling underground water depository located under Istanbul's busy streets and monuments. A beautiful piece of Byzantine engineering boasting 336 columns, the cistern was built during Justinian's rule around 532 A.D., apparently to meet the growing demands of the Grand Palace (which no longer stands, but which consumed most of present-day Sultanhamet during Byzantime times). You can walk through the cistern on walkways that have been built above the water and fish below. At the rear of the cistern, two Medusa heads support two columns -- one is upside down; the other on its side. It is said that the Medusa heads were plundered by the Byzantines from earlier monuments. While less well-known than other landmarks in Istanbul, the cistern is a must-see, especially if you are traveling with kids.
Over 1400 years old, the Haghia Sofia (or Aya Sofia) is one of the world's greatest buildings. Also built during Justinian's rule, and completed in 537 A.D., it was the world's largest cathedral for nearly 1000 years. It was converted into a mosque after Constantinople was conquered by the Ottomans in 1453. During the conversion, all of the Christian symbols and architectural features were either removed or plastered over. For centuries, it served as the architectural model for mosques all over the world. It was an operating mosque until 1935, when it was converted into a museum by the Republic of Turkey. It is awe-inspiring, to stay the least, to stand in this beautiful building, and to think about all of the events that have transpired here through the centuries.
One of the beautiful original mosaics, covered up by the Ottomans, and uncovered during the restoration process.
After a stop for lunch, and a little shopping in a pottery shop next to our lunch spot, we soldiered on to the Blue Mosque (so named for the beautiful blue tile that adorns the inside of the mosque), yet another one of the most famous religious buildings in the world. From the outside, the mosque, with its six minarets (five more than necessary -- Sultan Ahmet who commissioned the building of the mosque in the early 17th century evidently was trying to outdo all of the other mosques in the world) and cascading domes, evokes images of Aladdin and his magic carpet.
When we arrived at the Mosque, it had just closed for prayer services, so for about an hour, we walked around the perimeter of the building, and hung out in the Mosque's massive adjacent courtyard. We watched men (young and old alike) washing their feet around the outside of the perimeter of the courtyard (see the photo below) -- this is a cleansing ritual undertaken prior to entering a mosque for prayer. We also did a lot of people-watching in the courtyard, which was full not just of tourists, but of many locals either on their way into the mosque for prayer, or just hanging out in the courtyard.
When we finally were able to go into the Mosque, we had to remove our shoes. (Although I had been told that I would have to cover my head, curiously, no one told me to do so, so I didn't). Once in the Mosque, we were blown away by the vastness of the space and by all of the gorgeous blue, red and white tile on the walls and ceilings. The floor of the building also is completely covered with very pretty red carpet with blue flowers. The large light fixtures were extremely low-hanging, and suspended from the ceiling by long metal cords, which, in view, detracted from the beauty of the building. We arrived inside the Mosque just as the afternoon prayer was ending, and so there were still some men in the front of the building on their knees, praying, and there also were some Muslim women in the back of the church praying.
Two Muslim women sitting in the courtyard of the Blue Mosque.
Locals on their way in to prayer
A man washing his feet prior to entering the Mosque
Men praying and finishing up their prayers inside the Mosque
So, there you have it -- our first day in Istanbul. Now, maybe you can see why I felt that it would be impossible to write about our entire trip in one post. Next post: shopping in the Grand Bazaar, rug-buying and a visit to the Sultan's Palace!
As always, thanks for reading!!
Erin
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