So, who would've ever imagined that Belgrade, of all places, would have some of the best shopping opportunities I've ever encountered? I mean, the range of things that one can buy here is phenomenal. Starting with the fancy, the city has two very upscale shopping malls, with all the posh clothing stores one could imagine (for my Nashville friends, both malls are several steps up from Green Hills in terms of both the quality of shops and the asthetics of the building). I mean, I really can't afford to buy much of anything in either of these malls, but I do love going just to people-watch, and to find out what the trendy Serbian women are buying and wearing. I still can't figure out how these malls stay in business, as most Serbs certainly do not have the means to be buying such high-priced clothing, but obviously someone is buying the stuff.
Those who can't routinely plunk down $200 or more for a pair of shoes, however, need not worry -- there are many, many other great spots for shopping in this city. Besides the upscale shopping malls, Belgrade, like many European cities, has a pedestrian walking street called Kneza Mihailova that is jam-packed with stores, cafes, craft stalls and people. My Mom and I visited the street yesterday (she has been here for a week visiting from Nashville), and had so much fun just wandering in and out of all of the shops. Many of the stores in the malls also have storefronts on the walking street, but there are tons of other shops here, as well, and the craft stalls offer some great deals on local arts and crafts. This area bustles with activity day and night, and again, offers a great place for anyone who wants to do what so many people in this city seem to love to do -- linger over a cappucino or espresso, talk, eat, or just sit and people-watch.
If the malls and Kneza Mihailova don't suit your fancy, or if you are looking for a shopping experience that is a bit more "local," not to worry -- there are so many small shops tucked into buildings all over this town that you literally could make it your full-time job to explore all of Belgrade's small speciality stores. In the six or seven blocks of the street that runs behind the U.S. Embassy, for instance, I'll bet there are a hundred or more small shops, with wares ranging from kitchy souvenirs to rugs, to shoes, to bedding, to, well, you name it. I love that street. Of course, there are many bakeries and other little eateries tucked into the landscape as well, so in my view, it doesn't really get much better than Sarajevska street. It's not very pretty, but it's a lot of fun.
If you can't find what you're looking for on Sarajevska street, or others like it in downtown Belgrade, you can hit one of the several large markets in Belgrade. We went to a market with the kids last weekend in an old part of Belgrade called Zemun. Here, one can find everything from plumbing items (I kid you not) to clothing to electronics to flowers to fish (whole fish just pulled out of the Danube or Sava rivers). I have posted a picture of the Wes and Virginia with the "fish guy," who really took a liking to our family, even though we didn't buy any of his fish.
(He also gave Wes the cap he's wearing in the picture -- the Serbs are very generous). A few days later, my Mom and I visited a market in Belgrade called Buliak. I've posted a picture of this market, as well. Buliak must have more than 500 stalls -- it was really incredible, and again, if you can't find what you're looking for at Buliak, then you haven't looked closely enough.
One last note on grocery stores -- I was expecting the worst, but have been so pleased with the options. There are about five or six great grocery store chains here (mostly from other countries like Greece and Slovenia), but they are big, clean and offer just about everything we need. For the few items we can't find in the stores here, we visit the commissary at the Embassy, which carries -- at very elevated prices -- most things that are not available in the grocery stores.
Well, that's my update for today -- will post again soon. Hope everyone is well, and looking forward to hopefully hearing back from some of you!!
Erin
Those who can't routinely plunk down $200 or more for a pair of shoes, however, need not worry -- there are many, many other great spots for shopping in this city. Besides the upscale shopping malls, Belgrade, like many European cities, has a pedestrian walking street called Kneza Mihailova that is jam-packed with stores, cafes, craft stalls and people. My Mom and I visited the street yesterday (she has been here for a week visiting from Nashville), and had so much fun just wandering in and out of all of the shops. Many of the stores in the malls also have storefronts on the walking street, but there are tons of other shops here, as well, and the craft stalls offer some great deals on local arts and crafts. This area bustles with activity day and night, and again, offers a great place for anyone who wants to do what so many people in this city seem to love to do -- linger over a cappucino or espresso, talk, eat, or just sit and people-watch.
If the malls and Kneza Mihailova don't suit your fancy, or if you are looking for a shopping experience that is a bit more "local," not to worry -- there are so many small shops tucked into buildings all over this town that you literally could make it your full-time job to explore all of Belgrade's small speciality stores. In the six or seven blocks of the street that runs behind the U.S. Embassy, for instance, I'll bet there are a hundred or more small shops, with wares ranging from kitchy souvenirs to rugs, to shoes, to bedding, to, well, you name it. I love that street. Of course, there are many bakeries and other little eateries tucked into the landscape as well, so in my view, it doesn't really get much better than Sarajevska street. It's not very pretty, but it's a lot of fun.
If you can't find what you're looking for on Sarajevska street, or others like it in downtown Belgrade, you can hit one of the several large markets in Belgrade. We went to a market with the kids last weekend in an old part of Belgrade called Zemun. Here, one can find everything from plumbing items (I kid you not) to clothing to electronics to flowers to fish (whole fish just pulled out of the Danube or Sava rivers). I have posted a picture of the Wes and Virginia with the "fish guy," who really took a liking to our family, even though we didn't buy any of his fish.
(He also gave Wes the cap he's wearing in the picture -- the Serbs are very generous). A few days later, my Mom and I visited a market in Belgrade called Buliak. I've posted a picture of this market, as well. Buliak must have more than 500 stalls -- it was really incredible, and again, if you can't find what you're looking for at Buliak, then you haven't looked closely enough.One last note on grocery stores -- I was expecting the worst, but have been so pleased with the options. There are about five or six great grocery store chains here (mostly from other countries like Greece and Slovenia), but they are big, clean and offer just about everything we need. For the few items we can't find in the stores here, we visit the commissary at the Embassy, which carries -- at very elevated prices -- most things that are not available in the grocery stores.
Well, that's my update for today -- will post again soon. Hope everyone is well, and looking forward to hopefully hearing back from some of you!!
Erin
Erin! I was wondering when you'd start blogging to keep people updated. Love the pics and posts, it's great to see and read what y'all are up to. Keep 'em coming, and give my love to Wes, Graham, and Virginia (oh, and Eli, Aunt Deanna, and Uncle Ward)!
ReplyDeletecan't wait to visit in march! i won't be able to purchase $200/pr shoes after i buy the ticket to get there but pretending i can will be so much fun!
ReplyDelete:) It is me again! This turned into my morning coffee pass time. I love your blog!
ReplyDeleteThe flea market or (Buvljak --> buva = flea) is indeed it! I remember how disappointed I was in Madrid at their el Rastro. It was mostly souvenirs and used stuff. I have not yet been to the flea market here. I wonder what it is like.
It is true we have all the shops one can imagine! Still, I wish we started producing some of it! I believe Belgrade is very expensive because of that!